As The Growing Season Slows To A Crawl...

A whole new crop of chores springs up.

One of those is pruning your fruit trees and getting them ready for their coat of dormant oil spray. I have little knowledge about pruning fruit trees, but I have a friend that owns an apple and peach orchard. It is my understanding that when an apple tree is pruned, the bottom four limbs should form 90-degree angles and be approximately 2 feet off the ground. This allows the "picker" to walk into the center of the tree and allows for the maximum number of major limbs coming off the trunk.A second factor concerns the "height of the tree". When a trunk or limb is trimmed on the end, its "length" stops growing. The trunk/limb will start to form "outward shoots". I am told that the "ideal tree" will not be taller than the pickers highest reach. Instead, the tree is encouraged to grow outward until its limbs can support the total production desired... Ideally, the apple tree should produce FOUR bushels of apples per tree. The idea behind pruning fruit trees is to allow the apple to grow to maximum size without stunting production. Since apples are produced upon "2nd year" and older limbs, this would involve pruning the unnecessary "new sprouts" and removing the older limbs that are "too close together" and/or showing signs of damage. This allows the tree to direct its energy into fewer limbs, making the apples grow larger and maintaining the desired production. I guess it all boils down to this. You want a short, fat tree with relatively few healthy, stout limbs and limited offshoots to produce the apples. More limbs are not necessarily better.

Hydrangeas – I love hydrangeas. Absolutely love them. Bigleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla, also called French, Japanese or Snowball hydrangea, is found in the yards of homes all over the Rogue Valley. We also find them in grocery stores, wrapped in brightly colored foil or cellophane with big bows on them. More about those later.

Hydrangeas like sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon and moist, well-drained soil. They are more sensitive to frost that some other plants. Damage to the buds occurring in winter and late spring can be avoided by covering the plant with and old sheet or blanket or a large cardboard box when temps drop past freezing. Hydrangeas are excellent patio plants and do very well in containers. You can move the containers indoors on very cold nights.

When planting hydrangeas, prepare the soil in a very wide area. Hydrangea should have a whopping 50 pounds of composted organic matter per ten square feet and that should be incorporated into the top foot of the soil with a shovel. Organic matter holds nutrients and water in the soil and helps prevent the stress that occurs in fluctuations in soil moisture.

Science tells us that the actual mechanism that determines color variation in hydrangeas is due to the presence or absence of aluminum compounds in the flower. If the plant has aluminum, the color is blue. If the quantities are smaller the color is somewhere in between. If it is absent, the flowers are pink. When your soil is more acidic, aluminum is generally more available to the roots and your blooms will be blue. When your soil is more alkaline, aluminum availability is decreased and your blooms will be pink. To change you blooms from pink to blue, you can broadcast ½ cup of wettable sulfur per 10 square feet and water it in. To make the flowers pink, broadcast on cup of dolomitic lime per 10 square feet and water that into the soil. Both of these treatments can take up to a year to see a noticeable difference. A quicker way to achieve these changes is through a liquid drench. To make your blooms bluer during the growing season, dissolve one tablespoon of alum in a gallon of water and drench the soil around the plant in March, April and May. To make the blooms pink, dissolve one tablespoon of hydrated lime in a gallon of water and drench the soil around the plant during the same months as above. White, cream or those lovely green hydrangeas don’t generally change color no matter what you put on them.

Occasionally, hydrangeas will fail to bloom. If this happens, there could be a number of reasons why. Frost damage to the flower buds or pruning in the late summer where you may have actually cut off the forming buds is the most common reasons. If your hydrangea is planted in shade, which is too deep, it won’t bloom. If your fertilizer is too high in nitrogen, bloom will be affected. And, finally, your plant may simply not be old enough.

Let’s talk a bit about “gift” hydrangeas. Hydrangeas that come wrapped in colorful foil are beautiful. There are, however, pitfalls that come with these plants.

The most prevalent problem comes from trying to water them properly. Most of the “gift” hydrangeas you purchase are already root bound when you bring them home. The roots have so overgrown their pot that they dry out and the plant wilts much more quickly than we think it should. So we water it. This fills up the foil around the pot and can lead to root rot. Root rot causes the plant to wilt and we wind up thinking we haven’t watered it enough, so we give it more as the health of the plant deteriorates.

Let’s say that we’ve done all the right things with our “gift” hydrangea. We got it out of its foil wrapper, it’s gorgeous, it’s been watered as it should have, and it’s gotten plenty of light. Now we can take it outside and plonk it into a hole in the ground, right? Maybe not.

These hydrangeas have been grown in a greenhouse and have been bred specifically to produce a ton of blooms in a frost-free environment. The producers of these plants don’t really care if the plant lives 25 years; they are only concerned with lots of blooms. You may or may not get a plant that will survive in your garden. If you like a challenge, it’s worth a try. The results are less predictable if the hydrangea you’re putting in your garden came with a bow versus one that was born and bred for the garden.

Either way, the best time to plant hydrangeas is mid to late spring, when the chances of frost are negligible.

Old, established hydrangeas can be divided in the early spring by digging them up and dividing the clump with a shovel, much as you would divide a perennial. This way, several plants can be obtained from one mature clump. Be sure you water the plants very well and keep watering all summer. Perhaps you have a friend with some gorgeous hydrangeas who could use the help in dividing them and maybe will give you one or two in exchange.

Something Old, Something New

Frequently, we get very wrapped up in seeking out the next “new” and “cool” thing. Sometimes, it’s better to take a step back and check out some of the “old” things that we’ve forgotten, taken for granted or never even knew about.

Take lungwort for example. Not such a great name, eh? Lungwort is a flowering plant of the Pulmonaria genus and is native to Canada, Europe and Western Asia. There are a bunch of varieties and many of them do well in several different zones, including the multi-zoned Rogue Valley. Common names for Lungwort are Soldiers and Sailors, Spotted Dog, Jerusalem Cowslip or Bethlehem Sage.

This plant grows from a rhizome and has been used for centuries for it’s medicinal properties. Due to the shape of its leaves resembling a lung, the plant was used to treat a variety of lung ailments. Of course, the Center for Disease Control finds no scientific proof that lungwort is in any way beneficial to those with lung ailments.

Lungwort is a smaller plant that grows to approximately one foot in height. The growth is in close set bunches of speckled, deep green spear shaped leaves resembling the shape of a lung. The leave can be either slightly bristly or have soft hairs on them. It also has hairy stems without branches that are topped with blossoms. Some lungwort plants appear to have blossoms of both pink and blue at the same time, however it’s been found that the blooms start out pink and deepen into blue violet as they age. They’re quite a lovely perennial to have around the garden.

Lungwort likes partial shade and should be planted around 18 inches apart to give them enough space for sprawling. Lungwort also like a fairly rich soil, likes to be kept moist, doesn’t like wet feet – so good drainage is a must and blooms in the early spring. Bees and butterflies are attracted to the lovely blooms.

Most gardeners purchase their plants from the nursery to ensure they’re getting the colors they desire. Pruning is vital for lungwort. Trim off those old browning leaves to allow for fresh to emerge. Trim the stems after the flowers are done blooming, not just dead-heading. Cut them at the base of the stem but be aware to not cut into the main plant stalk. Lungwort needs lots of water, even in average garden conditions. I would grow it in containers on the patio, keep it watered regularly and enjoy the color. It’s a good idea to mulch lungwort in the fall and helpful to apply a thin layer of organic fertilizer in the spring. This plant is somewhat delicate, so be mindful to keep the fertilizer from being directly applied to the plant and only to the surrounding soil.

Lungwort is a lovely addition to the garden, especially if you’re planning on attracting butterflies, bees and hummers. With only a little effort, all can enjoy it. It is also a way to step back and embrace something old from another time.

Since we’re still looking back, let’s look at another old favorite – the snowdrop. While we don’t have snow on the ground yet, we have had our first spotty frosts, so we know it’s only a matter of time. For many gardeners, the first snowdrops herald the beginning of a new flowering season. If you don’t already grow these delightful bulbs, think about it. They are both whimsical and charming.

Snowdrops are one of the first bulbs to bloom in your garden, right alongside the crocus. They are small and not particularly glamorous, but they do make a nice foil for the more brilliantly hued crocus.

Snowdrops belong to the genus Galanthus that comes from the Greek gala (milk) and anthos (flower), so the literal translation is Milk Flower. Our name for them – Snowdrop – comes from the German “schneetropfen”.

There are a number of varieties of snowdrops. Relateivs of the daffodil, these small bulbs also closely resemble a daffodil bulb in appearance. Most winter/spring flowering bulbs actually like drying out over the summer. Not Snowdrop. They prefer relatively moist soil. This translates to a relatively short shelf life at the nursery center. If you’re buying your snowdrops at the garden center, bring them home and plant them immediately or your bulbs will shrivel. Once they get established in your garden, they maintain an active root system year around.

I think since snowdrops are so closely related to daffodils could be the reason that they are one of the best choices for naturalizing in lawns and among shrubs. Plant them in clusters in a sunny or partly shaded location, about 2” apart and about 2” deep. You can transplant them if you choose and are best moved while in leaf rather than waiting until the leaves fade. Like daffodils, they do not appear to be attractive to rabbits and deer.

The most frequently grown species is the common snowdrop (G. nivalis). Depending on where you are, they may bloom from January into April. You will often note the first appearance of snowdrops within days of the last snows of winter. Snowdrops are quite hardy and face late frosts and snow with valiance.

And now for something completely different….

Raspberry jam from green tomatoes. Really? I know what you’re thinking and, while I may be certifiable in just about every other area in life, this is not one of them. Jill Nicolaus from Dave’s Garden has provided the method and it’ll give you something entertaining to do with those last green tomatoes.

I’m sure that, with the recent threats of frost, you fled to the garden to save those last tomatoes. Maybe you’ve got some set aside to slowly ripen. Maybe you’ve been making fried green tomatoes, green tomato chutney and green tomato pickles. Run out of ideas? Round up your kids or grandkids – it’s time for something totally fun!

This jam is perfect to make with kids. Three ingredients, no canning – just some chopping and stovetop cooking. Be sure to gauge how much help your helpers are going to require. Move a chair or step stool to the stove so they can reach for stirring.

Admittedly, “red raspberry” jam from green tomatoes likely won’t bring home a blue ribbon from the county fair compared to Mrs. Nesbit’s very best quality raspberry preserves. However, the seeds give it an authentic look and the tang of the green tomatoes makes a nice counter to the sweetness. A recipe attributed to Southern Living magazine reduces the amount of sugar to 1-1/2 cups and increases the amount of tomato to 2-1/2 cups. I’ve heard that you can add a packet of unsweetened raspberry Kool Aid drink mix for extra zing. For us, that red dye could be an issue, but moderation in all things is the key!

There’s an entertainment factor of epic proportion by transforming green tomatoes into something that tastes and looks like red raspberries. Imagine the kick you and the kids will get out of revealing the “secret” of your homemade “raspberry” jam. Imagine the kids giggling themselves silly attempting to explain to their dad that he’s just eaten a peanut butter and tomato sandwich! Whether or not you have kids to help you, give this recipe a try. Faux food recipes are not only tasty, but they’re really amusing to serve to unsuspecting guests. You Red Hat Ladies – whip some of this “jam” up for one of your teas. After all, it’s the right color!

Green Tomato “Raspberry” Jam

2 cups minced green tomatoes
2 cups sugar
1 – 3 oz. Package red raspberry gelatin

Wash and stem or core the tomatoes and remove any bad spots. Then dice or shred the tomatoes. A food processor to roughly mince them also works well.

Put the tomatoes and sugar in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar and reduce the heat. Simmer 20 minutes. If you diced the tomatoes, cook them long enough so that they don’t look chunky anymore.

Add the raspberry gelatin and bring to a boil. Now the jam is ready to be poured into clean jars. This is not a shelf-stable recipe and you have to store it in the refrigerator or freezer. This recipe makes about a pint and you can totally double it if you wish.

One last thing…

With the current financial situation that exists in this country, the prices of food are going to continue to rise. Hunger is going to be a problem that is very likely already touching every community. The national statistic is that one in four children goes to bed hungry EVERY NIGHT! I don’t know that there is a food pantry program in my town; I haven’t honestly researched it. I know I didn’t have any place to take my kid’s out-grown clothes that would directly and immediately benefit my own community. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was no food pantry program to benefit our community’s immediate needs.

I’ve heard from folks who participate in the Plant A Row campaign that pantry programs are grateful for everything they can get. Maybe we should consider some other kinds of fruits and vegetables other than the summer standards of tomatoes, cucumbers and summer squash. I imagine that salad greens, spinach, green beans, carrots and new potatoes would be particularly welcome.

This spring, why not plant an extra row in your garden to help produce some nutritious food for those in our community who cannot provide for themselves or their kids? I’m sure there are folks around my local community center who know people who are struggling. If you attend, ask at your church – or better yet – ask why your church doesn’t have a community outreach to feed and clothe those who are struggling with this economy and unemployment situation. Aren't churches supposed to be about doing unto others? If they can send bibles to Mexico and missionaries to Kyrgystan, surely they can help feed and clothe some struggling families right here at home!

We could wait for the government to straighten things out. Right. Sure. I’ll be waiting for that – holding my breath – cause I look so good in blue.

Many pantries and food programs work with the “Plant A Row for the Hungry” campaign of the Garden Writers Association. This helps raise awareness of the need for donations of fresh produce. The Plant A Row campaign was born from one member’s realization that if every gardener would plant just one extra row of vegetables, hunger could be greatly alleviated and those who are struggling would have access to fresh food that they might otherwise not be able to afford. The difficulties many are experiencing are not going to go away overnight. Consider planting a little more than you need; an extra row of bush beans or carrots. We don’t have an active Plant A Row campaign here, but that doesn’t mean we can’t help out. Or even start one. I challenge every gardener this spring to give something back in the form of garden surplus and I challenge every church to identify families and seniors who would benefit from that surplus. In times like these, we have to take care of each other in every way that we can. Isn’t it just the right thing to do?

Meanderings...

I guess even garden girls can suffer from writer’s block. While I really love the rain and the cooler weather, it’s does rather put a bit of a cramp in the inspiration one has for digging in the dirt and watching things grow since all of that gets curtailed with this weather change. Bear with me while I meander around, hoping to provide you with something worth your time to read…

First off, October 12 has been tagged as “International Scream of Frustration Day.” Might be a useful bit of information, if your life has been going anything like mine. October also happens to be Spinach Lover’s Month, Vegetarian Month and Celebrate Sun-Dried Tomatoes Month.

Since we’ve arrived at autumn, many of you have tomato plants that are on their last legs. We don’t want to waste those last ‘maters, but what to do? Sun dried tomatoes are not only tasty and dense in nutrients, but are easy to prepare as well. Anyone who has purchased these from the stores knows that they aren’t exactly cheap.

Here’s the quick way (OK – so they aren’t “technically” SUN-dried) to make sun-dried tomatoes in your oven. Roma tomatoes are really the best for drying because they are more solid and have less seeds than other varieties. You can totally use any of your favorite homegrown beauties.

First, cut off the stems. Then, cut your ‘maters in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Put them on a cake rack on a baking sheet with the skin side down and sprinkle them with salt and pepper, if you wish. Bake them in the oven at 200 degrees for 8 to 12 hours. Whatever you do, don’t leave them unattended. Check on them to make sure they’re not turning into crispy critters. They should be shriveled up but still soft, like raisins.

Once they’re cool, pack them in freezer bags and store them in the freezer for up to a year. If you’ve got a Food Saver or Seal-A-Meal gadget, vacuum pack them. You might also want to store some in the fridge, packed in good quality olive oil with some minced garlic, fresh thyme or basil. Packed in oil, they’ll be good for around 3 months.

If you happen to have one of those stackable food dehydrators, then you’re way ahead of us – certainly light years ahead of me – and don’t need any of these instructions.

Last week I mentioned botanical or “species” tulips. Lots of folks view the tulip as the Queen of the spring blooming bulbs (I like fritillaries, but I digress). A hundred years or so of hybridizing has given us as many hybrids as there are years of the process. We’re not talking about those.

In the wild, 100 or so species of tulips occur. These are not native to Holland, as most people think – they are native to the Eastern Mediterranean, Asia Minor and other points east. These climates are cool and wet in the winter and baking dry and hot in the summer. (Gee, sound just like the Rogue Valley!) In most gardens, we don’t have those kinds of conditions, so those tulips that want the baking summers are not generally or easily found. There are, however, enough botanical types available for us to explore and be quite pleased with.

The botanicals are somewhat shorter than the classic Dutch tulip and usually live longer. They are best planted in groups of 5 or 7 and look great in rock gardens or in the front of border plantings.

The earliest of the botanicals to bloom are known as water-lily tulips (t. kaufmanniana). The popular hybrids of this botanical are ‘Ancilla’, ‘Concerto’, ‘Fashion’, ‘Heart’s Delight’ and ‘Stresa’ and run from white and cream to red and bright yellow.

T. greigii, another botanical, bears blooms that are quite large in relation to this size of the plant. The wild version of this tulip bear Vermillion-red blooms, but the modern hybrids boast blends of red, orange and yellow. They are quite striking.

Emperor tulips (t. fosteriana) are very popular and most closely resemble the classic tulip except that their blooms are more elongated. Emperor hybrids come in the color range from white to red and variegated. All three of the tulips described above bloom just before the standard tulips.

True species tulips range from easy to grow to…um…royal pains…er…rather challenging. A couple of the qualities of species tulips that I really like are that they seem to multiply rather quickly through bulblets and seed. Also, the bulbs produce clusters of two to five blooms! Definitely more bang for your buck! T. Turkestanica produces lovely star-shaped flowers in clusters of up to 12! How cool is that? The colors…well, they are generally pretty vibrant and unique in their combinations. Fluorescent orange, orange-red with white variegation, magenta-pink or red-orange with blue centers.

While the botanicals are not as classic in appearance as the hybrids of today, they are certainly unique and worth a look and a go.

October 21st is Apple Tuesday. In 1905, the New York Fruit Growers Association tried to get the 3rd Tuesday in October set up as a national holiday in the hope that every American would eat at least one apple on that day. Well, it didn’t work out that way, but it should have! Support your local grower on that day, or better yet…plant an apple tree of your own!

Really, the best apples are the ones you pick yourself, right off of the tree. The question I hear a lot is, “How do you know when they’re ripe?” Well, if it’s a red or pink variety, it’s pretty easy to tell. Some stay green or yellow, so color isn’t always a reliable indicator.

Lois Tilton tells us that observing the seed development is a very reliable method. Check the progress of the apples and look for changes in color. Nearly ripe apples are tart, but edible and the seeds are white. When the seeds start to turn dark, they are almost ready and when they are completely dark, it’s time to start picking. Also, if you can lift an apple off of the tree without pulling hard or twisting it off, that’s ready to pick.

When you’ve picked your apples, be gentle with them. Don’t plunk them into a bucket or sack. Ripe apples are easily bruised and bruised apples may rot.

These days, most of us grow dwarf fruit trees so we can get to the fruit without a skyhook and a trampoline. However, even these trees can grow taller than you expect. If your apples are growing out of reach, a stepladder is useful. For heaven’s sake, don’t stand on tippy toes on the top of the ladder to reach that one apple – usually the most attractive one on the entire tree – that hangs just…out…of…reach. We don’t want to be reading about you in the fire calls, with an apple induced broken arm. It is frustrating to see your fruit so high up in the tree and sometimes entirely out of reach. The solution may be to prune back the tree instead of climbing higher. Be safe and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Anyone interested in a very simple apple crisp, cooked in the crock pot, can email to thegardengrrl@gmail.com, with APPLE CRISP in the subject line. This recipe is simple, super tasty and makes your house smell divine.