The spectacular show of spring flowers put on by azaleas and rhododendrons make them amount the very most popular of garden shrubs. They are, however, shrubs for all seasons. Throughout summer and fall the leaves add an eye-pleasing, deep-green color to your garden. Some deciduous azaleas add bright fall color before dropping their leaves for winter. When winter does arrive, some varieties stand out with large, evergreen leaves.
Growing rhodies and azaleas is not difficult. The Renegade Gardener suggests that all nurseries should attach a bold tag to each plant that reads, “ATTENTION: GROWING THIS THING INVOLVES GARDENING!”
Here, you will find some simple gardening steps to successfully growing these truly magnificent shrubs:
LOCATION: Rhodies and azaleas both thrive in the light shade created by an overhead tree canopy. Dense shade, however, is not satisfactory. Rhodies can take full morning or afternoon sun, but like it best when it’s not more than four hours. Azaleas may be planted in part shade to full sun. In all cases, these plants must be mulched heavily throughout the growing season to keep their roots cool and the soil from drying out. Selecting a good site is important as is selecting a good quality plant. A site sloping to the north or east is usually best, because it is protected from the drying south and westerly winds. Always plant azaleas and rhodies where they get wind protection. Buildings and slopes provide good barriers. Evergreen shrubs or trees such as pine, juniper or spruce planted to the south or west of your rhodies protect them and make a good backdrop for showing off the flowers. Plants not given protection from the wind often develop leaf scorch or splitting bark on the stems.
SOIL: (I know, I know – “Here she goes with the soil again!” But really, folks, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants!) Soil is crucial. Rhodies and azaleas will die if planted in clay or any soil that does not drain efficiently, and will grow poorly without blooming in soil too high on the pH scale. They need ample moisture but will rot if the soil stays too damp. They wish to develop a thick mass of very fine, shallow roots that can spread with ease horizontally from the main stem. These roots will rarely go more than 8 inches deep, but can travel as far as 8 feet out. These roots need acidic soil, lower on the pH scale than the soil in your yard. All of these seemingly difficult conditions are extremely easy to create.
Most azaleas and rhodies thrive best at a soil pH between 4.5 and 6.0. Soils previously limed heavily for a lawn or garden may need the pH lowered. Mortar or other building materials mixed into the soil close to foundations may increase pH. It would be a really, really good idea to take a soil sample to any cooperative Extension Service Office for testing. If the pH is too high, the soil can be made more acid by applying agricultural sulfur or iron sulfate. The amount the pH will change varies with different soils, but generally about one and a fourth cups of iron sulfate or two and a half pounds of agricultural sulfur per 100 square feet will lower the pH one unit. For example, if the soil tests at 6.5, this treatment should lower it to 5.5.
Soils that are too acid (below 4.5) may easily be made less acid by adding ground limestone.
PLANTING: Prior to planting, dig a large, bowl-shaped hole at least three feet in diameter and 18 inches deep. If you can dig it wider, do! The hole should resemble a UFO landing site or a giant birdbath. Do not dig a hole with abrupt sides. In your barrow, make soil that is one-third compost, one third dirt and one third coarse sand or pea gravel. Remember, drainage is vital. Rhodies and azaleas don’t like wet feet! Fill your hole and plant your rhodie or azalea in the middle, being careful not to compact the soil. Scatter a couple of handfuls of soil sulfur across the circle and rake it lightly in. Water the “bowl” thoroughly and mulch with a two to three inch layer of wood chips. That’s it. You’ve just planted the shrub perfectly and it will thrive.
WATER: During hot periods with no rain, water moderately twice a week. If you’re using a drip system, which I personally don’t like for rhodies and azaleas, make sure you’re getting enough water to the outlying roots and keep the drip heads away from the crown of the plants. Over watering in sites where drainage is faulty will kill your plants, no doubt about it. Especially avoid excessive irrigation in the fall. Plants kept dry in September will tend to harden off and be better prepared for the winter. If the fall has been excessively dry, watering should be done after the first hard frost. At that time, watering will not reduce winter hardiness, but will prepare the plant for winter. The soil should be thoroughly moist before cold weather sets in with a vengeance. The best time for fall watering is around Thanksgiving. During the growing season, be sure that at least one inch of water, either from the sky or from the hose is available each week.
PRUNING: There is little need for pruning azaleas and rhodies. If growth becomes excessive, reduce the size with light pruning. It is important to remove the flower stems on rhodies as soon as flowering is complete, although this practice is not necessary on most azaleas. Failure to do this will reduce flowering the following year, leads to a messy plant and flowerbed and lends itself to disease. Be sure to break out only the dead flower cluster and not the young buds clustered at its base.
Azaleas sometimes branch poorly and form a loose, open shrub. The plant’s form can be improved by pinching out the soft, new shoots of vigorous growing plants. Do not pinch after July because flower buds will not have time to develop for the following year.
Fertilize as you would any shrub, preferably with an organic fertilizer. Be sure to stop all fertilizing after September 1. These plants set their flower buds for the next year in mid-summer, so they mustn’t be pruned in the fall or winter. Depending on the types of plants you’ve chosen, your plants can reach heights of six feet in our area, and in the spring will provide your garden with a riot of bloom that is a wonder to behold.
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