Who's Herb?

Herb gardening has gotten a bad rep for being snooty. Herbs are the easiest of plants to grow and they grow quickly. Most need very little maintenance, unless you have ideas of growing something formal and tidy. Most herbs are NOT tidy and the plants are to be used and don't lend themselves well to decorative purposes.

For our purposes, the term "herb" is not really definitive. It's best not to spend too much time debating what is or isn't an herb. Basically, an herb is valuable to the gardener if it suits your needs. For herb growers, it is a plant that can be used either for cooking, medicinal purposes or practically, such as for dyes or perfumes. Most common garden plants like iris, sunflowers, marigolds and even sweet peppers might make it onto someone's list. I don't know that I would consider hops, used by home brewers, as an herb, but they are. You have to approach herb gardening with an open mind.

Herb gardening comes down to what you want to do with your plants. If you want to dye your homespun yarn or make potpourri or cook like a chef, you'll want to grow plants that suit that need. Having a special place to grow herbs makes their care and harvesting more convenient. It is by no means the only or even the best way to grow herbs. You can always intermingle these plants throughout your garden beds or improvise according to your space and needs.

Annual kitchen herbs, like basil, dill and cilantro, are better suited to vegetable gardens, where they'll be certain to get regular watering and will be handy when you go out to harvest dinner. Some of the highly scented perennials, like lavender and sage, are better in flower borders to discourage deer and rabbits.

For those with small spaces, your herb garden could be a collection of pots. It's romantic to envision a series of small potted herbs on the windowsill, but the reality is you'll need a good sized plant to be able to harvest enough to cook with regularly. For occasional use and for the luxury of their scent, smaller potted herbs are a delight. If you have room indoors for larger pots, I say, "Do it!"

Pick a sunny spot, but try to keep it in the veggie garden or at least near the kitchen so you'll be tempted to step outside and grab what you need while cooking.

How large should you go? The answer would be - Large enough to grow all the plants you want or need. Culinary herbs don't take up a lot of space. Because you only cut out what you need, a couple of plants each should suffice for the season, unless you're basil addicts like us - then you might need more. If you're growing to dry or freeze your herbs, the obviously you'll need more plants and thus more space.

The Basics - Annual herbs are inexpensive and easy to start from seed. Woody, perennial herbs establish better if you purchase seedlings or take cuttings. Plant your herbs in a rich, well-draining soil and avoid heavy feedings with supplemental fertilizers. Remember, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants. Mulch, mulch, mulch. However, the scent and flavor of herbs tends to concentrate when they are grown in slightly lean conditions. Start with good soil and you'll be good. Please don't use any kind of pesticides on your herbs. If you must, a mixture of Ivory soap and water will put the kibosh on most pests.

Most annual herbs taste better before they flower or bolt. Once they flower, the new leaves are smaller and bitter. Pinch off flower buds as soon as they appear to lengthen your season. Basil can be pinched back when they are around 4 inches tall to encourage them to branch out and become full.

You can dry your herbs for use later as well. Air drying is not only the easiest and least expensive way to preserve fresh herbs, but this slow process does not deplete the plants of their oils. Bay, dill, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, summer savory and thyme do well with air drying. Basil, chives, mint and tarragon do better in a dehydrator or freezing. Bundle 4 to 6 branches with a rubber band and place in a smaller sized paper bag that's been labeled with the name of the herb and has a few holes punched in it. Gather the ends of the bag, making sure the herbs are not too crowded. Hang the bag upside down in a warm, airy room. Check in in about two weeks to see how things are going. Keep checking weekly thereafter until your herbs are dry and ready to store. I like glass jars, but zip lock bags work as well. Store the leaves whole and crush them as needed to retain more flavor. Keep your stored herbs out of sunlight and try to use up what you've stored within the year.

Think about the flavors that you love and get out there and grow it!

Container Gardening

Are you moving from a house to an apartment or perhaps into assisted living? Container gardening might be the answer for folks with limited space. Those in apartments, condominiums, retirement homes or houses on small lots can still enjoy gardening using containers. Containers are mobile so you can take your plants along or move them around for an instant splash of color.

If you're in a wheelchair, if your knees are just not cooperating with you being down on the ground or if your back just isn't going to take all that bending over in the garden anymore, don't despair - ADAPT!

Think about doing your gardening from a chair. The easiest solution is containers. Some say raised beds, but containers don't require any construction and are ultimately portable. Scatter containers throughout your garden area, get yourself a couple of lightweight garden chairs so you don't have to drag just one all over. You can simply sit down and enjoy the sun and your plants in comfort.

What better way to introduce your child or grandchild to gardening than to have their very own first garden? And what better way to share that love than to do it together?

Container gardening is not without it's issues. A plant growing in an exposed location will be under more stress and dry out faster. It will need a regular watering schedule. Consistent rains tend to leach the nutrients from the containers, requiring a regular fertilizing schedule. Large containers can be spendy and difficult to move when filled with soil, but the advantages FAR outweigh the issues.

Regular garden soil is not always best for container gardening. When soil is saturated with water, the air spaces are filled, depriving the roots of oxygen. Potting mix is your best bet. The mix may contain some soil or no soil at all (soilless potting mixes can be quite spendy, though). Additional ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite allow good drainage but still hold enough water for plant growth.

Containers come in a variety of styles and sizes. Of course, old buckets, cans and similar containers can all be recycled. The essential thing is that the container have holes in the bottom for draining excess water.

Plastic containers are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, styles and even colors. They are light in weight which can be an advantage if it has to be moved or carried. Clay pots are an old favorite, but they are quite porous and moisture will be lost more readily from the sides and bottom. They're also heavy. Wood is popular, but you should be careful about what that wooden container might have been treated with, chemically speaking.

"How big are we talking?" The answer to this question depends on what you plan to grow. You need to consider the balance between the top growth and root system of what you're growing. Small plants do well in fairly small, shallower containers. Plants in "stressful" locations such as a hot patio exposed to the south, or in elevated locations may need a slightly larger container. Most annual flowers and some small vegetables can grow in a container from 5-inches to a gallon or larger container. Larger veggies, such as dwarf tomatoes, pepper or cucumbers will require a minimum of a 1 to 3 gallon container. Full-size tomatoes and roses will require at least a 3-gallon container.

Since potting mixes drain water fairly rapidly, fertilizer will be washed out of the containers as you water and you will need to replace that lost fertilizer. Lighter mixes will require more frequent fertilizing than heavier mixes containing soil. Remember, you are growing a plant with a small, constricted root system, so regular fertilizing and watering are important.

Many gardeners prefer to apply a diluted, water soluble fertilizer at every other watering. There are several available at the local hardware store. Time release fertilizers are also becoming widely available and are pelleted to release fertilizer gradually over a longer period of time. I prefer fish emulsion for all the obvious reasons - it's not full of salts and chemicals, so nothing noxious is going to be leaking about your garden and get transferred into the ground and water table.

Since containers are usually situated in an exposed location, water is quickly lost from them. Also, smaller containers have less of a reservoir for holding water until needed. There is no rule of thumb on how often to water since it will vary with the type of plant, potting mix, weather and the type of pot.

You may find that watering daily is needed if it's really hot out. One advantage of using a potting mix is that it is nearly impossible to over water since the water drains so quickly. Check your plants frequently and be alert for signs of wilting to give more water. The best method is to stick your finger about an inch into the soil to feel the dryness. Always give sufficient water to allow a small amount to drain out the bottom. This indicates that the container is saturated.

Many annual flowers can be grown in containers, especially those that tolerate heat stress. Especially popular are marigolds, geraniums (I love geraniums!) and periwinkle. Shady location plants include impatiens, ageratum, begonias and nicotiana.

Veggies require sunny locations and will vary in their produce on the type of crop. There are many varieties developed specifically for growing in containers. Check your seed catalogs for these new varieties. (Besides, who doesn't like leafing through a seed catalog?) Flowering cabbage and kale are attractive relatives of the standard varieties. Lettuce and other salad greens are available in a variety of colors and leaf textures. Red chard is also popular in containers because of it's bright red stalks.

Many gardeners like to have herbs growing near the kitchen where they are handy to use in cooking. Basil, chives, marjoram and thyme are all easy to grow in containers. Lots of gardeners keep mint in containers since it is aggressive and will pretty much take over any area in which it is planted. Some herbs are perennial and can be moved indoors for winter use or held in the container until the next year. I know a number of gardeners who dig a hole in the garden to winter-over perennial herbs til the next season.

So get creative. Put a beautiful container of wonderfully scented flowers near your front door or a nice cherry tomato to greet callers. Don't focus on what you think you've lost just because you can't crawl around the perennial border of your yard to pull weeds. Teach your grandchild or the neighborhood kid to find the joy in this task. This is a whole new adventure in gardening. The great news is that you may find entirely different special areas where you can install a mini-garden in a container.

It's all in your perspective.

Green Up Your Lawn

Green Up Your Lawn - Organically

Most people find lawn care challenging, but it is actually much simpler than it seems. We’ve all grown so compliant to the concept that the only way to get that lovely green lawn is through the use of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides. The truth is that a healthy organic lawn will stand fast against insect invasions and all but the toughest of weeds. Plus – you have the added bonus of not having the chemicals going into the ground, the water table and getting on your kids and grandkids, who can now be flagrant grass-rollers with no concern!

These five steps will result in a beautiful healthy organic lawn:

Get a soil test. Lawns are a little finicky about the pH levels and nutrient requirements. The only way to measure these factors is to get your soil tested at a facility such as the local county cooperative extension service. You can ad either lime or sulfur to your lawn, depending upon the results of the pH test. Too much of certain types of nutrients will benefit the weeds at the cost of your lawn’s health. The test results will not only provide you with accurate measurements of pH, but chemical composition as well. They will further supply you with recommendations for how to improve your soil. Adding amendments without getting a soil test is not only a waste of money, but you could wind up with a less healthy lawn that the one you started with.

Top dress with compost in the spring and fall. Every single lawn can benefit from a twice-yearly top dressing of compost. It will add trace minerals and some nutrition to your soil. Remember, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants. Compost also introduced beneficial microbes into your soil, which results in healthier soil that has better water retention. Earthworms love compost and will tunnel through your soil to get to it, aerating your lawn, adding fertility and increasing worm populations. A one-quarter inch layer of compost, raked evenly over your lawn, will accomplish all of these tasks without overwhelming your lawn. How much do you need? 100 square feet of lawn will require one cubic foot of compost.

Mow high. Mowing high, 2.5 to 3 inches tall, does a number of important things. Taller grass shades the soil, which helps weed seeds from germinating. It helps keep the soil moist and cool, so your lawn will require less water. Finally, taller grass will increase its ability to photosynthesize. Each blade soaks up the sunlight and converts that energy into food. Another beneficial mowing practice is to use a mulching mower and leave your grass clippings right on the lawn. The clippings will shade and cool the soil while they decompose, and will give your lawn frequent, low doses of nitrogen.

Water deeply, but less often. People waste more water on lawns than anywhere else in the household. Lawn grasses need approximately one inch of water per week during the growing season. If it doesn’t come from rain, you’ll need your sprinkler. Lawns need to dry out between waterings. There are two reasons why this is important – First, a lawn that is watered frequently develops a root system only in the first inch or two of soil. These lawns are susceptible to heat and drought. Second, lawn grasses grow best when their roots extend deep into the soil. Most weeds are shallow-rooted. By watering frequently and not allowing the soil to dry out, you’re actually encouraging weeds. The best way to ensure that you’re watering enough is to use a rain gauge, or even a coffee can to catch the water. Measure every ten minutes or so and when you’ve got an inch, you’re done. Water in the early morning so that your grass has a chance to dry out before evening to avoid fungal issues.

Be Smart About Weeds. While weeds are not the end of the world, no one wants a lawn that’s more dandelions than grass. A little white clover, however, isn’t going to hurt anything, plus it captures nitrogen from the air and released it through its roots into the soil. There are several great organic ways to address weeds in your lawn. The first method – the one that no one likes – is to simply pull or dig out the weeds on a regular basis so they don’t take over your lawn. Ahem. Yeah, I knew that would go over like a lead balloon. The second method is to apply corn gluten meal, which is an organic pre-emergent herbicide, in early spring – like right now. Corn gluten is outstanding at controlling dandelions, crab grass and other weeds, but it’s not an instant fix. It can take up to two years of use before the corn gluten gets things totally under control. You can also run your lawn mower a few times over the leaves on your lawn rather than raking them up and adding them to the burn pile. A recent study by Michigan State University showed that chopped leaves left on the lawn and allowed to break down naturally prevented the germination of dandelions the following year.

Organic lawn care isn’t hard and it’s not expensive either. If you’re willing to change a few longstanding lawn care habits or beliefs, a beautiful ORGANIC lawn is easily within your reach.

GARDEN FOCUS FOR APRIL:
Rake or remove mulches from your flowerbeds.

Broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a combination of the two over alkaline-loving perennials such as delphiniums and dianthus.

Sow sweet peas as soon as the soil can be worked. Nick the seeds with a nail file and plant them five inches deep, but cover them with three inches of soil. Hoe more soil on them as they grow.

Although April can be a damp month, be mindful of keeping your transplants well watered during dry spells.

When the danger of frost has passed, uncover your strawberry bed and keep it well watered.

Rhododendrons & Azaleas

The spectacular show of spring flowers put on by azaleas and rhododendrons make them amount the very most popular of garden shrubs. They are, however, shrubs for all seasons. Throughout summer and fall the leaves add an eye-pleasing, deep-green color to your garden. Some deciduous azaleas add bright fall color before dropping their leaves for winter. When winter does arrive, some varieties stand out with large, evergreen leaves.

Growing rhodies and azaleas is not difficult. The Renegade Gardener suggests that all nurseries should attach a bold tag to each plant that reads, “ATTENTION: GROWING THIS THING INVOLVES GARDENING!”

Here, you will find some simple gardening steps to successfully growing these truly magnificent shrubs:

LOCATION: Rhodies and azaleas both thrive in the light shade created by an overhead tree canopy. Dense shade, however, is not satisfactory. Rhodies can take full morning or afternoon sun, but like it best when it’s not more than four hours. Azaleas may be planted in part shade to full sun. In all cases, these plants must be mulched heavily throughout the growing season to keep their roots cool and the soil from drying out. Selecting a good site is important as is selecting a good quality plant. A site sloping to the north or east is usually best, because it is protected from the drying south and westerly winds. Always plant azaleas and rhodies where they get wind protection. Buildings and slopes provide good barriers. Evergreen shrubs or trees such as pine, juniper or spruce planted to the south or west of your rhodies protect them and make a good backdrop for showing off the flowers. Plants not given protection from the wind often develop leaf scorch or splitting bark on the stems.

SOIL: (I know, I know – “Here she goes with the soil again!” But really, folks, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants!) Soil is crucial. Rhodies and azaleas will die if planted in clay or any soil that does not drain efficiently, and will grow poorly without blooming in soil too high on the pH scale. They need ample moisture but will rot if the soil stays too damp. They wish to develop a thick mass of very fine, shallow roots that can spread with ease horizontally from the main stem. These roots will rarely go more than 8 inches deep, but can travel as far as 8 feet out. These roots need acidic soil, lower on the pH scale than the soil in your yard. All of these seemingly difficult conditions are extremely easy to create.

Most azaleas and rhodies thrive best at a soil pH between 4.5 and 6.0. Soils previously limed heavily for a lawn or garden may need the pH lowered. Mortar or other building materials mixed into the soil close to foundations may increase pH. It would be a really, really good idea to take a soil sample to any cooperative Extension Service Office for testing. If the pH is too high, the soil can be made more acid by applying agricultural sulfur or iron sulfate. The amount the pH will change varies with different soils, but generally about one and a fourth cups of iron sulfate or two and a half pounds of agricultural sulfur per 100 square feet will lower the pH one unit. For example, if the soil tests at 6.5, this treatment should lower it to 5.5.

Soils that are too acid (below 4.5) may easily be made less acid by adding ground limestone.

PLANTING: Prior to planting, dig a large, bowl-shaped hole at least three feet in diameter and 18 inches deep. If you can dig it wider, do! The hole should resemble a UFO landing site or a giant birdbath. Do not dig a hole with abrupt sides. In your barrow, make soil that is one-third compost, one third dirt and one third coarse sand or pea gravel. Remember, drainage is vital. Rhodies and azaleas don’t like wet feet! Fill your hole and plant your rhodie or azalea in the middle, being careful not to compact the soil. Scatter a couple of handfuls of soil sulfur across the circle and rake it lightly in. Water the “bowl” thoroughly and mulch with a two to three inch layer of wood chips. That’s it. You’ve just planted the shrub perfectly and it will thrive.

WATER: During hot periods with no rain, water moderately twice a week. If you’re using a drip system, which I personally don’t like for rhodies and azaleas, make sure you’re getting enough water to the outlying roots and keep the drip heads away from the crown of the plants. Over watering in sites where drainage is faulty will kill your plants, no doubt about it. Especially avoid excessive irrigation in the fall. Plants kept dry in September will tend to harden off and be better prepared for the winter. If the fall has been excessively dry, watering should be done after the first hard frost. At that time, watering will not reduce winter hardiness, but will prepare the plant for winter. The soil should be thoroughly moist before cold weather sets in with a vengeance. The best time for fall watering is around Thanksgiving. During the growing season, be sure that at least one inch of water, either from the sky or from the hose is available each week.

PRUNING: There is little need for pruning azaleas and rhodies. If growth becomes excessive, reduce the size with light pruning. It is important to remove the flower stems on rhodies as soon as flowering is complete, although this practice is not necessary on most azaleas. Failure to do this will reduce flowering the following year, leads to a messy plant and flowerbed and lends itself to disease. Be sure to break out only the dead flower cluster and not the young buds clustered at its base.

Azaleas sometimes branch poorly and form a loose, open shrub. The plant’s form can be improved by pinching out the soft, new shoots of vigorous growing plants. Do not pinch after July because flower buds will not have time to develop for the following year.

Fertilize as you would any shrub, preferably with an organic fertilizer. Be sure to stop all fertilizing after September 1. These plants set their flower buds for the next year in mid-summer, so they mustn’t be pruned in the fall or winter. Depending on the types of plants you’ve chosen, your plants can reach heights of six feet in our area, and in the spring will provide your garden with a riot of bloom that is a wonder to behold.