Green Up Your Lawn - Organically
Most people find lawn care challenging, but it is actually much simpler than it seems. We’ve all grown so compliant to the concept that the only way to get that lovely green lawn is through the use of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides. The truth is that a healthy organic lawn will stand fast against insect invasions and all but the toughest of weeds. Plus – you have the added bonus of not having the chemicals going into the ground, the water table and getting on your kids and grandkids, who can now be flagrant grass-rollers with no concern!
These five steps will result in a beautiful healthy organic lawn:
Get a soil test. Lawns are a little finicky about the pH levels and nutrient requirements. The only way to measure these factors is to get your soil tested at a facility such as the local county cooperative extension service. You can ad either lime or sulfur to your lawn, depending upon the results of the pH test. Too much of certain types of nutrients will benefit the weeds at the cost of your lawn’s health. The test results will not only provide you with accurate measurements of pH, but chemical composition as well. They will further supply you with recommendations for how to improve your soil. Adding amendments without getting a soil test is not only a waste of money, but you could wind up with a less healthy lawn that the one you started with.
Top dress with compost in the spring and fall. Every single lawn can benefit from a twice-yearly top dressing of compost. It will add trace minerals and some nutrition to your soil. Remember, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants. Compost also introduced beneficial microbes into your soil, which results in healthier soil that has better water retention. Earthworms love compost and will tunnel through your soil to get to it, aerating your lawn, adding fertility and increasing worm populations. A one-quarter inch layer of compost, raked evenly over your lawn, will accomplish all of these tasks without overwhelming your lawn. How much do you need? 100 square feet of lawn will require one cubic foot of compost.
Mow high. Mowing high, 2.5 to 3 inches tall, does a number of important things. Taller grass shades the soil, which helps weed seeds from germinating. It helps keep the soil moist and cool, so your lawn will require less water. Finally, taller grass will increase its ability to photosynthesize. Each blade soaks up the sunlight and converts that energy into food. Another beneficial mowing practice is to use a mulching mower and leave your grass clippings right on the lawn. The clippings will shade and cool the soil while they decompose, and will give your lawn frequent, low doses of nitrogen.
Water deeply, but less often. People waste more water on lawns than anywhere else in the household. Lawn grasses need approximately one inch of water per week during the growing season. If it doesn’t come from rain, you’ll need your sprinkler. Lawns need to dry out between waterings. There are two reasons why this is important – First, a lawn that is watered frequently develops a root system only in the first inch or two of soil. These lawns are susceptible to heat and drought. Second, lawn grasses grow best when their roots extend deep into the soil. Most weeds are shallow-rooted. By watering frequently and not allowing the soil to dry out, you’re actually encouraging weeds. The best way to ensure that you’re watering enough is to use a rain gauge, or even a coffee can to catch the water. Measure every ten minutes or so and when you’ve got an inch, you’re done. Water in the early morning so that your grass has a chance to dry out before evening to avoid fungal issues.
Be Smart About Weeds. While weeds are not the end of the world, no one wants a lawn that’s more dandelions than grass. A little white clover, however, isn’t going to hurt anything, plus it captures nitrogen from the air and released it through its roots into the soil. There are several great organic ways to address weeds in your lawn. The first method – the one that no one likes – is to simply pull or dig out the weeds on a regular basis so they don’t take over your lawn. Ahem. Yeah, I knew that would go over like a lead balloon. The second method is to apply corn gluten meal, which is an organic pre-emergent herbicide, in early spring – like right now. Corn gluten is outstanding at controlling dandelions, crab grass and other weeds, but it’s not an instant fix. It can take up to two years of use before the corn gluten gets things totally under control. You can also run your lawn mower a few times over the leaves on your lawn rather than raking them up and adding them to the burn pile. A recent study by Michigan State University showed that chopped leaves left on the lawn and allowed to break down naturally prevented the germination of dandelions the following year.
Organic lawn care isn’t hard and it’s not expensive either. If you’re willing to change a few longstanding lawn care habits or beliefs, a beautiful ORGANIC lawn is easily within your reach.
GARDEN FOCUS FOR APRIL:
Rake or remove mulches from your flowerbeds.
Broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a combination of the two over alkaline-loving perennials such as delphiniums and dianthus.
Sow sweet peas as soon as the soil can be worked. Nick the seeds with a nail file and plant them five inches deep, but cover them with three inches of soil. Hoe more soil on them as they grow.
Although April can be a damp month, be mindful of keeping your transplants well watered during dry spells.
When the danger of frost has passed, uncover your strawberry bed and keep it well watered.
1 comment:
Thanks for linking me to this. i think I read it when you posted it via google reader, but nice to remind myself.
So my question i guess is should I water short periods more often, or less often longer periods?
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