It Pays To Grow The Berry Best...

Nothing says “Summer” like juicy delicious strawberries, warm from the sun, oozing with flavor. Around here, the very sight of the rich, red berries is enough to spark an argument over who gets to eat it between the girls. Strawberries are just beautiful all the way around – beautiful plants, whimsical little blooms and the fruit…oh, the fruit!

Growing your own really is the ONLY way to get that sun-drenched flavor that is so lacking in what we find in the grocery stores. Truly ripe and juicy strawberries are just too fleeting and perishable to be found in any grocery store. Commercial strawberries are grown for firmness, size and shelf life…period. Flavor is secondary. Besides that, like tomatoes, commercial strawberries are plucked before they turn red. It stops the development of flavor in its tracks, but not the lovely color.

Strawberries are really easy to grow; truly one of the easiest and most rewarding gardening effort you can take on. They don’t need a lot of space and they produce lots of berries fairly quickly. Right now is the ideal time to make plans to grow your own, so here’s some information you might want to consider to help you succeed:

Perennial strawberries come in three types: June-bearers (or short-days), day-neutrals and ever-bearers. June-bearers are available as early, mid- and late-season varieties, are the most widely grown by home gardeners, according to Barbara L. Bowling, author of The Berry Grower’s Companion (a wonderful book, by the way). Day-neutrals, gaining in popularity, bear a modest crop along with the June-bearers and continue to produce fruits into the fall. “They produce flower buds regardless of day length, thus producing fruit throughout the summer and a sizeable fall crop that is a great bonus for backyard growers,” Bowling says. Day-neutrals, however, don’t like really hot summers. Ever-bearers, which are sometimes confused with day-neutrals, bear from early summer into the fall, but are less productive and have lower-quality berries than the day-neutrals. Either way, the ongoing harvests appeal to many gardeners.

You can harvest berries from day-neutrals and ever-bearers the first year. It’s better to wait with June-bearers until the second year. In many zones, growing a combination of these types, you should be able to harvest your own tasty strawberries from late May through October every year.

Go for the berry varieties that are tried and true local favorites. Check with the Master Gardeners or the local extension. There are a few varieties that are good tasting and disease resistant no matter where you are: June-bearers Earliglow and Jewel are great. Seascape and Tribute are day-neutrals that produce large fruit on strong plants.

Strawberries grow in a wide range of locations. They do, however, like full sun and slightly acidic soil. They are hungry plants and require lots of nutrients from soil high in organic matter. Choose a site with good air circulation and drainage. Avoid areas where tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers or raspberries have been grown in the last five years as these plants can be hosts for verticullium wilt, a threat to strawberries.

Prior to planting, remove all perennial weeds and till in a 1 to 2 inch layer of compost. Plant your strawberries in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. When you plant keep in mind that the holes should be wide enough to accommodate the roots, fan out the roots as you plant and be sure the crown of the plant is slightly above soil level.

June-bearers send off more runners than either day-neutrals or ever-bearers and should be spaced about 18 inches apart with about 3 feet between rows. This spacing allows the runners to root and form what is known as a “matted row.” Day-neutrals and ever-bearing types should be spaced about 9 inches apart with 24 inches between the rows. These two types also have a higher requirement for nitrogen, so fertilize them with a good organic fertilizer once a month or so, June through September.

Once you’ve got your strawberries in the ground and fertilized, follow up with a deep mulch of straw, grass clippings or pine needles between plants. Mulching inhibits weeds, conserves moisture and helps keep the fruits clean and roots cool. Water your new plants thoroughly and try to keep the soil evenly moist, as consistent moisture is essential for strawberries shallow root system.

During the first year, no matter what kind of strawberries you are growing, your goal should be to get your plants well established. One way to do this is to pinch all the flowers for the first four to six weeks. By doing this, you are helping the plants to focus energy into developing healthy leaves, strong root systems and runners.

The major pests affecting strawberries – besides your children or grandchildren decimating your crop in one fell swoop – are birds (cover your rows with bird netting) and slugs or snails. Diatomaceous earth works well on slugs, snails and earwigs. You can put out beer traps for the slugs and snails or you can release decollate snails (Rumina decollata), a proven slug and snail predator sold in garden centers, nurseries and through mail order.

If you want your plants to succeed for years to come, you should renovate your beds after each harvest period. As a bed grows older, the plants become too crowded, berries become smaller and yields decline. To renovate, narrow the rows to 6 to 12 inches and then thin the remaining plants to about 4 or 5 inches apart, removing the older, smaller and spindly plants whenever possible. Some people mow their rows, but I use hedge trimmers to remove the old leaves and avoid hitting the crowns. June-bearers and day-neutrals, managed properly, should produce good crops of large berries for at least five years. Day-neutrals will need to be replaced about every third year.

After renovation, give all your strawberry beds – no matter what type – a good weeding and top-dress them with compost or feed with organic fertilizer. Replenish the mulch between the plants and be sure to have covering available in the late fall. 3 to 4 inches of loose straw should be just the ticket, but be sure to remove the straw in the early spring.

There’s one more good reason to grow your own strawberries – and that’s THE DIRTY DOZEN. Strawberries are one of those fruits that are generally packed with high levels of pesticide residue, even after you wash them. Homegrown strawberries are ALWAYS fresh, firm and delicious. Since they’re so easy to grow, the only problem you’re ever likely to have is not to growing enough.

Aphids & Beetles & Grubs, Oh My!

Pick a pest, any pest, and there is very likely a natural control for it. One that won’t poison you, your kids, your pets or the planet. Natural pest control is so much less expensive than buying and applying pesticides, plus it’s safer for your garden, natural wildlife and the environment.

Each year North American gardeners use approximately 136 MILLION pounds of pesticides on lawns and gardens, and in their homes. Homeowners actually use THREE TIMES the amount of pesticides as farmers. Most wildlife pest poisonings and most surface water contamination from pesticides come from single-family homes.

Homemade remedies are a longstanding tradition among organic gardeners, who have had to be creative in finding ways to deal with insects and diseases without the aid of synthetic chemicals.

In the case of fighting aphids, two homemade sprays have proven very effective in controlling aphid infestations. Tomato leaf spray and garlic oil spray have been used to battle aphids for generations.
Tomato Leaf Spray: Tomato plants, as members of the nightshade family, contain toxic compounds called alkaloids in their leaves. When the leaves of tomato plants are chopped, they release their alkaloids. When the alkaloids are suspended and diluted in water, they make a spray that is easy to use, toxic to aphids and safe around other plants and humans. You will need one to two cups of tomato leaves, two cups of water, a strainer and a spray bottle. Soak the chopped leaves of the tomato in the two cups of water overnight. Strain the leaves out of the liquid and put that in your spray bottle. Fill the rest of the bottle with water. To use the tomato leaf spray in your battle against aphids, spray the stems and foliage of the infested plant with the spray, paying particular attention the undersides of the leaves where aphids like to congregate. This spray is safe for humans; however if you are allergic to tomatoes or other members of the nightshade family, use a lot of care when using this remedy.

Garlic Oil Spray: Organic gardeners have long relied on garlic as part of their pest-control arsenal. Garlic contains sulfur, which, besides being toxic to pests, is also an antibacterial and antifungal agent. The dish soap in the mixture will break down the bodies of soft-bodied insects, like aphids. You will need four cloves of garlic, mineral oil, a strainer, some Ivory dish soap, water and a spray bottle. Mince or finely chop the garlic and add to that two teaspoons of mineral oil. Let this mixture sit for 24 hours. Pick out the garlic and add the liquid to one pint of water. Add one teaspoon of Ivory soap. This mixture can be stored, diluted and used as needed. Use two tablespoons of the mixture to one pint of water in your spray bottle. First test the mixture by spraying it on an inconspicuous part of the plant to see if the mixture will harm it. If there are no signs of yellowing or leaf damage after a day or two, it is safe to use on that plant. If there is leaf damage, your mixture is too strong and you will need to dilute it more and test it again. If it is determined that it won’t harm your plant, spray the entire plant, paying particular attention to the undersides of the leaves. Garlic oil is a non-selective insecticide, meaning that it will kill beneficial insects as well as the ones you want to get rid of. Only use garlic oil if there are no signs of beneficial insects (lady bugs, lacewings and mantis) in your garden. The tomato leaf recipe will not harm beneficial insects.

For Lawn Or Garden Grubs: There is a natural remedy called milky spore. The granules are spread on the soil and cause the grubs to contract a disease that kills them. This natural control affects only the grubs, leaving the beneficial residents unharmed. Milky spore multiplies over time and will sit inactive, waiting for grubs to infest. One treatment is said to last 40 years!

Mites and Other Insects: Mix two tablespoons of hot pepper sauce (the hotter the better!) or cayenne pepper with a few drops of Ivory soap into a quart of water. Let stand overnight, stir and pour into a spray bottle. Apply as with other organic sprays. Shake the bottle frequently during application.

Earwigs, Slugs and Snails: Sprinkle diatomaceous earth over plants and around the edges of your garden beds. The diatoms particles are very small and sharp, but only harmful to the small exoskeletons of insects, slugs and snails.

Powdery Mildew: Mix equal parts of milk and water and spray on infected plants. Three treatments about a week apart should control the disease.

Insects and Fungal Diseases: Combine one tablespoon of cooking oil, two tablespoons of baking soda and a few drops of Ivory soap into a quart of water. Pour into a spray bottle and apply as above.

Good Bugs Vs. Bad Bugs: Releasing large numbers of lady bugs or praying mantis into areas of your garden infested with insect pests is lots of fun and can be a very effective means of controlling aphids, mealy bugs, leaf worms and many other pests. Ladybugs should be released at night near the base of infested plants where they will seek and devour your pests. Praying mantids are voracious predators that will feed on many of the larger pests including grubs, beetles, leafhoppers and caterpillars. These beneficial insects are available for sale and through mail order.

By applying these natural and organic pest control techniques it is possible to stay one step ahead of the pests and be ready for them when they arrive!

Terriffic Tomatoes

Terrific Tomatoes

If you’re the competitive tomato gardening type, it’s never too early to be thinking about growing the earliest and sweetest tomatoes on your block. Unfortunately, growing great tomatoes doesn’t just happen on it’s own. Those science experiments they offer us in the grocery stores over the winter months are proof positive of that! Starting early with some time-tested tomato growing tips will ensure you the bragging rights you deserve.

Don’t overcrowd – If you are starting from seed, be sure to give your seedlings plenty of room to branch out. Grow them too close together and you’ll get puny plants. Transplant them as soon as they get their first true leaves and then move them into 4” pots in about two weeks.

Throw some light on the subject – Your seedlings will need either direct sunlight or 14 to 18 hours under grow lights. Place the young plants only a couple of inches from your grow lights. Plant your tomatoes outside in the sunniest part of your vegetable garden.

Fan the flames – Tomato plants need to move and sway in the breeze in order to develop good, strong stems. Turn a fan on them for 5 to 10 minutes a day to provide them with a breeze.

Preheat your soil – Tomatoes LOVE heat! Cover your planting area with garden plastic a couple of weeks before you intend to plant. This week, you could likely get away with a few days since it’s going to be gloriously warm! That extra heat will translate into earlier tomatoes.

REALLY plant them – Bury your tomatoes deeper than they than they were in the pot, clear up to several of the top leaves. Tomato plants have the amazing ability to develop roots all along their stems, making for a strong root system. Dig your holes deeper.

Plant today, mulch later – Lay out your mulch after the ground has had a chance to warm up. Mulching conserves water and prevents the soil and soil borne diseases from splashing up on the plants, but if you lay it on too early it will also shade and cool the soil. Try using plastic mulch for heat lovers like tomatoes and peppers.

Remove the leaves – Once your plants are around 3’ tall, remove the leaves from the bottom foot of the stem. This is the area that will first develop fungus issues. That area of the plant gets the least amount of sun and pathogens from the soil can be splashed onto them. Spraying once a week with compost tea or a mixture of 2 tablespoons of baking soda, a tablespoon of Ivory soap and a gallon of water seem to be effective at warding off fungus diseases.

Pinch and prune – Pinch off the suckers that develop in the crotch of two branches as they won’t bear fruit and sap vital energy away from the rest of the plant. Take care with pruning the rest of the plant. Thin out the leaves to allow the sun to reach the ripening fruit, but not too much. Those leaves are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that will be flavoring your tomatoes.

Water – Water regularly and deeply while the plants are developing. Irregular watering leads to blossom end rot and cracked fruits. Once your tomatoes start to ripen, watering a little less will encourage the plant into concentrating it’s sugars in the fruits. Don’t withhold water so much that the plants wilt or get stressed, or you could lose your blossoms and possibly fruit.

Setting fruit – Determinate type tomatoes set and ripen fruit all at once, making large quantities available when you’re ready to stew, make sauce or put up salsa. Those are also the ones that will send your neighbors running when they see you coming with your shopping bag of tomatoes due to the fact that you’ve planted too many plants and are overrun. Indeterminate types, which are nice to have, can be forced into setting fruit earlier by pinching off the tips of the main stems in early summer.

In Your Garden This Week…
1. Provide support for flowers that need it before they start to fall over. Pea stakes are good for sweet peas and ramblers. Use grow-thru rings for bushier plants like peonies and balloon flowers.

2. Spread a little lime or wood ashes around your delphiniums and peonies.

3. Trim your climbing roses and attach securely to fences or trellises.

4. Scatter crushed eggshells thickly around roses to deter slugs.

5. Sow annual poppies and baby’s breath in your borders for midsummer bloom by scattering them between the other plants, covering with fine soil and tamping down gently.

6. Prune suckers from fruit trees NOW before they become established.

Who's Herb?

Herb gardening has gotten a bad rep for being snooty. Herbs are the easiest of plants to grow and they grow quickly. Most need very little maintenance, unless you have ideas of growing something formal and tidy. Most herbs are NOT tidy and the plants are to be used and don't lend themselves well to decorative purposes.

For our purposes, the term "herb" is not really definitive. It's best not to spend too much time debating what is or isn't an herb. Basically, an herb is valuable to the gardener if it suits your needs. For herb growers, it is a plant that can be used either for cooking, medicinal purposes or practically, such as for dyes or perfumes. Most common garden plants like iris, sunflowers, marigolds and even sweet peppers might make it onto someone's list. I don't know that I would consider hops, used by home brewers, as an herb, but they are. You have to approach herb gardening with an open mind.

Herb gardening comes down to what you want to do with your plants. If you want to dye your homespun yarn or make potpourri or cook like a chef, you'll want to grow plants that suit that need. Having a special place to grow herbs makes their care and harvesting more convenient. It is by no means the only or even the best way to grow herbs. You can always intermingle these plants throughout your garden beds or improvise according to your space and needs.

Annual kitchen herbs, like basil, dill and cilantro, are better suited to vegetable gardens, where they'll be certain to get regular watering and will be handy when you go out to harvest dinner. Some of the highly scented perennials, like lavender and sage, are better in flower borders to discourage deer and rabbits.

For those with small spaces, your herb garden could be a collection of pots. It's romantic to envision a series of small potted herbs on the windowsill, but the reality is you'll need a good sized plant to be able to harvest enough to cook with regularly. For occasional use and for the luxury of their scent, smaller potted herbs are a delight. If you have room indoors for larger pots, I say, "Do it!"

Pick a sunny spot, but try to keep it in the veggie garden or at least near the kitchen so you'll be tempted to step outside and grab what you need while cooking.

How large should you go? The answer would be - Large enough to grow all the plants you want or need. Culinary herbs don't take up a lot of space. Because you only cut out what you need, a couple of plants each should suffice for the season, unless you're basil addicts like us - then you might need more. If you're growing to dry or freeze your herbs, the obviously you'll need more plants and thus more space.

The Basics - Annual herbs are inexpensive and easy to start from seed. Woody, perennial herbs establish better if you purchase seedlings or take cuttings. Plant your herbs in a rich, well-draining soil and avoid heavy feedings with supplemental fertilizers. Remember, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants. Mulch, mulch, mulch. However, the scent and flavor of herbs tends to concentrate when they are grown in slightly lean conditions. Start with good soil and you'll be good. Please don't use any kind of pesticides on your herbs. If you must, a mixture of Ivory soap and water will put the kibosh on most pests.

Most annual herbs taste better before they flower or bolt. Once they flower, the new leaves are smaller and bitter. Pinch off flower buds as soon as they appear to lengthen your season. Basil can be pinched back when they are around 4 inches tall to encourage them to branch out and become full.

You can dry your herbs for use later as well. Air drying is not only the easiest and least expensive way to preserve fresh herbs, but this slow process does not deplete the plants of their oils. Bay, dill, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, summer savory and thyme do well with air drying. Basil, chives, mint and tarragon do better in a dehydrator or freezing. Bundle 4 to 6 branches with a rubber band and place in a smaller sized paper bag that's been labeled with the name of the herb and has a few holes punched in it. Gather the ends of the bag, making sure the herbs are not too crowded. Hang the bag upside down in a warm, airy room. Check in in about two weeks to see how things are going. Keep checking weekly thereafter until your herbs are dry and ready to store. I like glass jars, but zip lock bags work as well. Store the leaves whole and crush them as needed to retain more flavor. Keep your stored herbs out of sunlight and try to use up what you've stored within the year.

Think about the flavors that you love and get out there and grow it!

Container Gardening

Are you moving from a house to an apartment or perhaps into assisted living? Container gardening might be the answer for folks with limited space. Those in apartments, condominiums, retirement homes or houses on small lots can still enjoy gardening using containers. Containers are mobile so you can take your plants along or move them around for an instant splash of color.

If you're in a wheelchair, if your knees are just not cooperating with you being down on the ground or if your back just isn't going to take all that bending over in the garden anymore, don't despair - ADAPT!

Think about doing your gardening from a chair. The easiest solution is containers. Some say raised beds, but containers don't require any construction and are ultimately portable. Scatter containers throughout your garden area, get yourself a couple of lightweight garden chairs so you don't have to drag just one all over. You can simply sit down and enjoy the sun and your plants in comfort.

What better way to introduce your child or grandchild to gardening than to have their very own first garden? And what better way to share that love than to do it together?

Container gardening is not without it's issues. A plant growing in an exposed location will be under more stress and dry out faster. It will need a regular watering schedule. Consistent rains tend to leach the nutrients from the containers, requiring a regular fertilizing schedule. Large containers can be spendy and difficult to move when filled with soil, but the advantages FAR outweigh the issues.

Regular garden soil is not always best for container gardening. When soil is saturated with water, the air spaces are filled, depriving the roots of oxygen. Potting mix is your best bet. The mix may contain some soil or no soil at all (soilless potting mixes can be quite spendy, though). Additional ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite allow good drainage but still hold enough water for plant growth.

Containers come in a variety of styles and sizes. Of course, old buckets, cans and similar containers can all be recycled. The essential thing is that the container have holes in the bottom for draining excess water.

Plastic containers are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, styles and even colors. They are light in weight which can be an advantage if it has to be moved or carried. Clay pots are an old favorite, but they are quite porous and moisture will be lost more readily from the sides and bottom. They're also heavy. Wood is popular, but you should be careful about what that wooden container might have been treated with, chemically speaking.

"How big are we talking?" The answer to this question depends on what you plan to grow. You need to consider the balance between the top growth and root system of what you're growing. Small plants do well in fairly small, shallower containers. Plants in "stressful" locations such as a hot patio exposed to the south, or in elevated locations may need a slightly larger container. Most annual flowers and some small vegetables can grow in a container from 5-inches to a gallon or larger container. Larger veggies, such as dwarf tomatoes, pepper or cucumbers will require a minimum of a 1 to 3 gallon container. Full-size tomatoes and roses will require at least a 3-gallon container.

Since potting mixes drain water fairly rapidly, fertilizer will be washed out of the containers as you water and you will need to replace that lost fertilizer. Lighter mixes will require more frequent fertilizing than heavier mixes containing soil. Remember, you are growing a plant with a small, constricted root system, so regular fertilizing and watering are important.

Many gardeners prefer to apply a diluted, water soluble fertilizer at every other watering. There are several available at the local hardware store. Time release fertilizers are also becoming widely available and are pelleted to release fertilizer gradually over a longer period of time. I prefer fish emulsion for all the obvious reasons - it's not full of salts and chemicals, so nothing noxious is going to be leaking about your garden and get transferred into the ground and water table.

Since containers are usually situated in an exposed location, water is quickly lost from them. Also, smaller containers have less of a reservoir for holding water until needed. There is no rule of thumb on how often to water since it will vary with the type of plant, potting mix, weather and the type of pot.

You may find that watering daily is needed if it's really hot out. One advantage of using a potting mix is that it is nearly impossible to over water since the water drains so quickly. Check your plants frequently and be alert for signs of wilting to give more water. The best method is to stick your finger about an inch into the soil to feel the dryness. Always give sufficient water to allow a small amount to drain out the bottom. This indicates that the container is saturated.

Many annual flowers can be grown in containers, especially those that tolerate heat stress. Especially popular are marigolds, geraniums (I love geraniums!) and periwinkle. Shady location plants include impatiens, ageratum, begonias and nicotiana.

Veggies require sunny locations and will vary in their produce on the type of crop. There are many varieties developed specifically for growing in containers. Check your seed catalogs for these new varieties. (Besides, who doesn't like leafing through a seed catalog?) Flowering cabbage and kale are attractive relatives of the standard varieties. Lettuce and other salad greens are available in a variety of colors and leaf textures. Red chard is also popular in containers because of it's bright red stalks.

Many gardeners like to have herbs growing near the kitchen where they are handy to use in cooking. Basil, chives, marjoram and thyme are all easy to grow in containers. Lots of gardeners keep mint in containers since it is aggressive and will pretty much take over any area in which it is planted. Some herbs are perennial and can be moved indoors for winter use or held in the container until the next year. I know a number of gardeners who dig a hole in the garden to winter-over perennial herbs til the next season.

So get creative. Put a beautiful container of wonderfully scented flowers near your front door or a nice cherry tomato to greet callers. Don't focus on what you think you've lost just because you can't crawl around the perennial border of your yard to pull weeds. Teach your grandchild or the neighborhood kid to find the joy in this task. This is a whole new adventure in gardening. The great news is that you may find entirely different special areas where you can install a mini-garden in a container.

It's all in your perspective.

Green Up Your Lawn

Green Up Your Lawn - Organically

Most people find lawn care challenging, but it is actually much simpler than it seems. We’ve all grown so compliant to the concept that the only way to get that lovely green lawn is through the use of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides. The truth is that a healthy organic lawn will stand fast against insect invasions and all but the toughest of weeds. Plus – you have the added bonus of not having the chemicals going into the ground, the water table and getting on your kids and grandkids, who can now be flagrant grass-rollers with no concern!

These five steps will result in a beautiful healthy organic lawn:

Get a soil test. Lawns are a little finicky about the pH levels and nutrient requirements. The only way to measure these factors is to get your soil tested at a facility such as the local county cooperative extension service. You can ad either lime or sulfur to your lawn, depending upon the results of the pH test. Too much of certain types of nutrients will benefit the weeds at the cost of your lawn’s health. The test results will not only provide you with accurate measurements of pH, but chemical composition as well. They will further supply you with recommendations for how to improve your soil. Adding amendments without getting a soil test is not only a waste of money, but you could wind up with a less healthy lawn that the one you started with.

Top dress with compost in the spring and fall. Every single lawn can benefit from a twice-yearly top dressing of compost. It will add trace minerals and some nutrition to your soil. Remember, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants. Compost also introduced beneficial microbes into your soil, which results in healthier soil that has better water retention. Earthworms love compost and will tunnel through your soil to get to it, aerating your lawn, adding fertility and increasing worm populations. A one-quarter inch layer of compost, raked evenly over your lawn, will accomplish all of these tasks without overwhelming your lawn. How much do you need? 100 square feet of lawn will require one cubic foot of compost.

Mow high. Mowing high, 2.5 to 3 inches tall, does a number of important things. Taller grass shades the soil, which helps weed seeds from germinating. It helps keep the soil moist and cool, so your lawn will require less water. Finally, taller grass will increase its ability to photosynthesize. Each blade soaks up the sunlight and converts that energy into food. Another beneficial mowing practice is to use a mulching mower and leave your grass clippings right on the lawn. The clippings will shade and cool the soil while they decompose, and will give your lawn frequent, low doses of nitrogen.

Water deeply, but less often. People waste more water on lawns than anywhere else in the household. Lawn grasses need approximately one inch of water per week during the growing season. If it doesn’t come from rain, you’ll need your sprinkler. Lawns need to dry out between waterings. There are two reasons why this is important – First, a lawn that is watered frequently develops a root system only in the first inch or two of soil. These lawns are susceptible to heat and drought. Second, lawn grasses grow best when their roots extend deep into the soil. Most weeds are shallow-rooted. By watering frequently and not allowing the soil to dry out, you’re actually encouraging weeds. The best way to ensure that you’re watering enough is to use a rain gauge, or even a coffee can to catch the water. Measure every ten minutes or so and when you’ve got an inch, you’re done. Water in the early morning so that your grass has a chance to dry out before evening to avoid fungal issues.

Be Smart About Weeds. While weeds are not the end of the world, no one wants a lawn that’s more dandelions than grass. A little white clover, however, isn’t going to hurt anything, plus it captures nitrogen from the air and released it through its roots into the soil. There are several great organic ways to address weeds in your lawn. The first method – the one that no one likes – is to simply pull or dig out the weeds on a regular basis so they don’t take over your lawn. Ahem. Yeah, I knew that would go over like a lead balloon. The second method is to apply corn gluten meal, which is an organic pre-emergent herbicide, in early spring – like right now. Corn gluten is outstanding at controlling dandelions, crab grass and other weeds, but it’s not an instant fix. It can take up to two years of use before the corn gluten gets things totally under control. You can also run your lawn mower a few times over the leaves on your lawn rather than raking them up and adding them to the burn pile. A recent study by Michigan State University showed that chopped leaves left on the lawn and allowed to break down naturally prevented the germination of dandelions the following year.

Organic lawn care isn’t hard and it’s not expensive either. If you’re willing to change a few longstanding lawn care habits or beliefs, a beautiful ORGANIC lawn is easily within your reach.

GARDEN FOCUS FOR APRIL:
Rake or remove mulches from your flowerbeds.

Broadcast lime, wood ashes, or a combination of the two over alkaline-loving perennials such as delphiniums and dianthus.

Sow sweet peas as soon as the soil can be worked. Nick the seeds with a nail file and plant them five inches deep, but cover them with three inches of soil. Hoe more soil on them as they grow.

Although April can be a damp month, be mindful of keeping your transplants well watered during dry spells.

When the danger of frost has passed, uncover your strawberry bed and keep it well watered.

Rhododendrons & Azaleas

The spectacular show of spring flowers put on by azaleas and rhododendrons make them amount the very most popular of garden shrubs. They are, however, shrubs for all seasons. Throughout summer and fall the leaves add an eye-pleasing, deep-green color to your garden. Some deciduous azaleas add bright fall color before dropping their leaves for winter. When winter does arrive, some varieties stand out with large, evergreen leaves.

Growing rhodies and azaleas is not difficult. The Renegade Gardener suggests that all nurseries should attach a bold tag to each plant that reads, “ATTENTION: GROWING THIS THING INVOLVES GARDENING!”

Here, you will find some simple gardening steps to successfully growing these truly magnificent shrubs:

LOCATION: Rhodies and azaleas both thrive in the light shade created by an overhead tree canopy. Dense shade, however, is not satisfactory. Rhodies can take full morning or afternoon sun, but like it best when it’s not more than four hours. Azaleas may be planted in part shade to full sun. In all cases, these plants must be mulched heavily throughout the growing season to keep their roots cool and the soil from drying out. Selecting a good site is important as is selecting a good quality plant. A site sloping to the north or east is usually best, because it is protected from the drying south and westerly winds. Always plant azaleas and rhodies where they get wind protection. Buildings and slopes provide good barriers. Evergreen shrubs or trees such as pine, juniper or spruce planted to the south or west of your rhodies protect them and make a good backdrop for showing off the flowers. Plants not given protection from the wind often develop leaf scorch or splitting bark on the stems.

SOIL: (I know, I know – “Here she goes with the soil again!” But really, folks, feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants!) Soil is crucial. Rhodies and azaleas will die if planted in clay or any soil that does not drain efficiently, and will grow poorly without blooming in soil too high on the pH scale. They need ample moisture but will rot if the soil stays too damp. They wish to develop a thick mass of very fine, shallow roots that can spread with ease horizontally from the main stem. These roots will rarely go more than 8 inches deep, but can travel as far as 8 feet out. These roots need acidic soil, lower on the pH scale than the soil in your yard. All of these seemingly difficult conditions are extremely easy to create.

Most azaleas and rhodies thrive best at a soil pH between 4.5 and 6.0. Soils previously limed heavily for a lawn or garden may need the pH lowered. Mortar or other building materials mixed into the soil close to foundations may increase pH. It would be a really, really good idea to take a soil sample to any cooperative Extension Service Office for testing. If the pH is too high, the soil can be made more acid by applying agricultural sulfur or iron sulfate. The amount the pH will change varies with different soils, but generally about one and a fourth cups of iron sulfate or two and a half pounds of agricultural sulfur per 100 square feet will lower the pH one unit. For example, if the soil tests at 6.5, this treatment should lower it to 5.5.

Soils that are too acid (below 4.5) may easily be made less acid by adding ground limestone.

PLANTING: Prior to planting, dig a large, bowl-shaped hole at least three feet in diameter and 18 inches deep. If you can dig it wider, do! The hole should resemble a UFO landing site or a giant birdbath. Do not dig a hole with abrupt sides. In your barrow, make soil that is one-third compost, one third dirt and one third coarse sand or pea gravel. Remember, drainage is vital. Rhodies and azaleas don’t like wet feet! Fill your hole and plant your rhodie or azalea in the middle, being careful not to compact the soil. Scatter a couple of handfuls of soil sulfur across the circle and rake it lightly in. Water the “bowl” thoroughly and mulch with a two to three inch layer of wood chips. That’s it. You’ve just planted the shrub perfectly and it will thrive.

WATER: During hot periods with no rain, water moderately twice a week. If you’re using a drip system, which I personally don’t like for rhodies and azaleas, make sure you’re getting enough water to the outlying roots and keep the drip heads away from the crown of the plants. Over watering in sites where drainage is faulty will kill your plants, no doubt about it. Especially avoid excessive irrigation in the fall. Plants kept dry in September will tend to harden off and be better prepared for the winter. If the fall has been excessively dry, watering should be done after the first hard frost. At that time, watering will not reduce winter hardiness, but will prepare the plant for winter. The soil should be thoroughly moist before cold weather sets in with a vengeance. The best time for fall watering is around Thanksgiving. During the growing season, be sure that at least one inch of water, either from the sky or from the hose is available each week.

PRUNING: There is little need for pruning azaleas and rhodies. If growth becomes excessive, reduce the size with light pruning. It is important to remove the flower stems on rhodies as soon as flowering is complete, although this practice is not necessary on most azaleas. Failure to do this will reduce flowering the following year, leads to a messy plant and flowerbed and lends itself to disease. Be sure to break out only the dead flower cluster and not the young buds clustered at its base.

Azaleas sometimes branch poorly and form a loose, open shrub. The plant’s form can be improved by pinching out the soft, new shoots of vigorous growing plants. Do not pinch after July because flower buds will not have time to develop for the following year.

Fertilize as you would any shrub, preferably with an organic fertilizer. Be sure to stop all fertilizing after September 1. These plants set their flower buds for the next year in mid-summer, so they mustn’t be pruned in the fall or winter. Depending on the types of plants you’ve chosen, your plants can reach heights of six feet in our area, and in the spring will provide your garden with a riot of bloom that is a wonder to behold.